Independence Day (& the 4th of July) In The French Quarter

JULY 2nd INDEPENDENCE DAY (REPRISE)

7.3.22 Liuzza's BBQ Poboy

A Happy Ending, N’Awlins Style!

When I awoke Tuesday July 2nd, or Independence Day as I came to know it, Jake was already shuffling around nervously. “I fixed your bike this morning,” he said before confiding that Debra was on her way. He was genuinely distressed. “She’s one of my best friends, man,” he said, shaking his head. “But everything’s cool between you and me.” The writer in me was fascinated. He was absolving me of my sins, unaware that I may have a lingering gripe and mystified that Debra was turning on him.

I’m fairly certain (though I never got a reason) that Debra’s annoyance stemmed from Jake’s failure to acquire work and, as she said, “contribute.” To her. Even though I’d been pulled into this unwittingly, she later told me that what happened between the two of us was between the two of us . . . she was not our mother. That went over like a Led Zeppelin.

As I said before, Jake never struck me as malicious. He at times tried to be helpful and wanted to connect, complaining that he hated to eat alone and cooking that contraband breakfast before I left. He had met Debra consoling her after a bad break-up. From the start, though, he struck me as someone who never grew up and took responsibility—like an early teen who feels small acts of kindness (I took out the trash and called grandma in the hospital) are sufficient exchange for food and shelter. He arrived from three weeks in Africa helping his brother-in-law on a film project, allegedly falling ill and subsequently being abandoned. I’d always suspected he’d quickly outstayed his welcome, as he now had once again. I can’t know for sure, but like a good scientist I have a strong body of evidence with which to form a theory.

SUGAR RATIONING (SORRY FOR THE INCONVENIENCE)

As he packed, Jake asked for a cup of coffee with the crestfallen look of Charlie Brown realizing he hadn’t got a single Valentine. I nodded. Holding grudges wouldn’t change anything. “You got any sugar?” I shook my head. “You somehow consumed an entire container while I was gone.” He waved nonchalantly. “No problem. I’ll [Read more…]

A Day In The (Quarter) Life

I GOT TO ADMIT I’M GETTING BETTER

Getting betterI slept late that first Sunday back, having rolled in after 3 a.m., but awoke able to breathe. Perhaps the douse of bleach I gave my entire room before leaving had worked. Perhaps it had just been a weird seasonal allergy—something is always blooming in this city. Either way, it felt good to actually feel good.

Since the traces of ground coffee I’d left behind were gone, I walked down the block to my favorite French Quarter coffee shop, Café Envie, and ordered an omelet and coffee to nurse and refill all afternoon as I caught up on email and blogging. The food here is excellent for a coffee shop and the open air atmosphere rustic and quaint. You would think there’d be more coffee shops like this in the French Quarter, but most of the good ones are Uptown like favorite Krewe Du Brew.

THE LONG & WINDING RUSE

The-Long-And-Winding-Road-A-Tribute-To-The-BeatlesIt was lunchtime when I arrived and nearly dinner before I heeded the weary stares of the baristas and headed home. Upstairs I ran into Jake for the first time since he’d taken off the night before. I calmly confronted him about my missing groceries, first bringing up the beer. “Man, it gets hot up here [as if water doesn’t work], and, besides, [Read more…]

The Last Known Survivor (Fan) Stalks His Prey In The (Humid N’Awlins) Night

A COCHARONA AND A TWIST OF LIME

DSC02791Now that I was back in New Orleans with renewed health and vigor, I set aside my annoyance at kitchen pillaging and headed out that first night to enjoy Frenchman Street with clear sinuses and renewed excitement. There was a steady crowd for a Saturday but, being off-season, no place was packed. No band grabbed my attention, so I found myself in the Spotted Cat clutching a beer so instantly drenched in condensation that it was almost warm before I took the first sip. The Jazz Vipers with Craig Klein of Bonerama on trombone were playing but I could barely hear from my perch at the. Besides, the singer seemed more intent on telling rambling stories than leading the band.

Survivor_-_Too_Hot_To_SleepThe humidity prodded me to skip the obligatory Abita and order a Corona. As I watched the condensation roll down the bottle on this sultry sub-tropic night I was reminded of a song lyric that had confounded me in my youth. Survivor was my favorite band in Jr. High and (being one of thirty people who purchased it) I loved Too Hot To Sleep, their final album. My strict Baptist upbringing, though, provided little vocabulary for drinking, and I was always puzzled by the title track that described the singer sitting alone at a tropical bar under a swirling ceiling fan watching a beautiful woman across the room and singing: “A cocharona and a twist of lime / Keeps me cool when I’m alone.” That was P.G.A. (Pre-Google Age), so I spent years wondering what a cocharona was. As I now [Read more…]

Back In The Saddle (But No Beer For My Horses)

THE 2ND OF JULY: EVICTION DAY

Back to the FutureYesterday morning Debra showed up and escorted Jake, the friend she’s let crash here, to the door. She was in a grim mood but told me nothing about what happened. When I made a few timid inquiries the short replies implied it was none of my business, though I felt otherwise—few things being more intimate than where you lay your head. At least it’s made for a good story. And there’s a valuable lesson: If you rent to a writer beware of stirring up drama if you don’t want it going public!

Still, you may be wondering how we got to this point. As I recouped in Florida I had little to write about so was lax in posting, but my few days back in town have been quite eventful so suddenly I have a lot of catching up to do. So let’s jump in the DeLorean with Marty McFly and crank the dial back three weeks.

HAVING FUN EVEN IF IT MAKES YOU MISERABLE

JustifiedI had always planned to return to Florida in mid-June to visit and retrieve some furniture once I had an idea of what I’d need in my new abode, but a week stretched into two and a half due to illness and preparing my condo for the market. I had been sick and then stressed out, so I left earlier than planned and spent a shameful amount of time in bed catching up on Netflix and DVR (Justified Season 4 was awesome and I am now addicted to American Horror Story!) and eating good (and healthier) food. I still managed to be productive, though, meeting with a real estate attorney and cleaning and rearranging my condo for showing.

Whatever Delta funk had infected me, though, took nearly three weeks to work out of my system (New Orleans biological voodoo is fierce—I’ve spent half my time here getting over something!) and my rattled confidence took just as long to recover. While this town is friendly and welcoming when you’re waving tourist $$$, I’ve found in moving here that it’s, under the welcoming veneer, a very closed southern town much like Charleston or Savannah. I didn’t expect to be an overnight success, but making personal and professional inroads has been more difficult than expected. Blogging about this disconnect prompted one reader to ask if I was giving up on New Orleans. Of course not! I’m in it at least until March 4, 2014 (next Mardi Gras, for those slow on the uptake.)  I just needed a break. This is supposed to be the adventure of a lifetime, after all, so I’m going to have fun even if it makes me miserable!

Back in the SaddleBesides, no place is perfect, and as my stay in Jacksonville dragged on it was soon clear it was time to move on. An appointment with a realtor pushed my departure back to last Friday and I decided to stay one more night to help a friend celebrate officially reclaiming her maiden name. Finally, Saturday morning, I loaded up the V-8 workhorse and headed west. As my verve and swagger revived those last few days I got on an Aerosmith kick, so to quote those bawdy Bostonians, now I’m Back In The Saddle Again!

WELCOME BACK, BLOGGER

When I went to start my truck that morning, though, my brand new battery was somehow completely dead. After getting it jumped, the skies opened up without warning as I carried my suitcase out. Sometimes I wonder if the universe is trying to tell me something!? Once on the road, though, the drive was uneventful—I’m getting a hang of the one stop journey—and it was still daylight when I pulled onto Decatur Street. Someone called my name and I looked up to see Jake waving from the balcony. I waved back and then he went inside and closed the door.

To avoid exposing myself to French Quarter pillaging, I always move stuff into the building first and then worry about getting it up the long and winding staircase later. Both the cab and bed of my truck was packed, and Jake never poked his head out to help with the furniture although I’d asked before leaving town. I was already drenched in sweat as I moved the first load up the stairs. When I arrived at the top landing, he was waiting for me: “Dude, I only ask one thing,” he said before I could even set anything down, “that you don’t write about me in the blog.”

It was an uncomfortable arrival. I figured Debra had been reading but doubted he would bother. I know the portrait I’ve painted hasn’t been flattering, but it has been honest and I had decided that, considering I’d asked for none of this and she knew going in I was here to write about my experiences, it was all fair game. Now, though, I felt a twinge of guilt.

maple_packageGranted, I had to ask repeatedly for him to quit eating my food, to clean up after himself when dishes would linger in the sink for days, to not smoke with the doors open and a breeze carrying through the place, etc. On the other hand, I’d made fun of his story of the 19-year-old girl he’d met before going to Africa, though the telling had been innocent enough. He did try to be friendly and, although I  worried I may return to find the guitar I left behind in a pawn shop, I never felt physically threatened. He’d even insisted on cooking me breakfast the morning I’d left for Florida, although he admitted to ‘lifting’ the bacon he went to the store for!

Thus I didn’t feel completely in the wrong, but I did feel guilty. I fumbled an explanation and apologized if I offended him, saying I’d avoid mentioning things as much as possible, though explained that the whole point of my being here was to write about it. He nodded and took off as I finished unpacking.

FEED JAKE

My guilt was short-lived. Once I had all but the heavy items  upstairs, I went to the refrigerator, drenched in sweat, for some water. The back of my neck instantly turned red. All the beer I’d left was gone.

I went through all the cabinets and boxes of cereal had been opened and nearly finished, a whole container of sugar had been drained  dry, snacks were gone, and a liter of Gatorade missing. As I walked downstairs I spied my laundry detergent tossed aside empty in the trash. Basically, anything that didn’t require cooking (because effort required was the only safeguard) had been finished or nearly so. My guilt turned to fury. I’d asked multiple times for him to ask before taking food, yet always felt bad and gave in when he asked. In my absence, though, it had all been fair game. Taking food when your hungry is somewhat forgiveable. Taking beer, hardly necessary to sustain life, just showed blatant disregard.

It’s hard to think clear when you’re upset, so I called a friend back in Jax and took some time to relax before finally taking an inventory of my room. If any possession were gone I was ready to pack up and drive away. Jake did seem to operate by some sort of moral code and left my ‘stuff’ alone, but it was an uncomfortable position to be in, having to have faith in where he may draw that line.

DRAW THE LINE

aerosmith-line-2My mind was now mulling over Jake’s request not to mention him. I didn’t want to escalate the situation, yet my experiences are mine to share and his pilfering of groceries had zapped my sympathy. Besides, it certainly is an interesting story. Every writer must figure out where to draw that line as to how much they share and live with the disapproval of those who don’t like the results.

It was all too much to figure out after a nine-hour drive and unpacking. I needed a drink. Since there was no beer in the refrigerator, I tossed on a fresh t-shirt, grabbed a ball cap, and headed out not caring how I looked or smelled. It was New Orleans, after all. Someone in the bar would surely be skuzzier!

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Read Beans On Monday: Interview With DIRTY LITTLE ANGELS Author Chris Tusa

DIRTY LITTLE REDO

Dirtly Little AngelsFor last Monday’s ‘Read Beans’ I posted a review of local author Chris Tusa’s Dirty Little Angels, a crime noir novella about a young girl coming of age in New Orleans while grappling with the city’s violent underbelly. I recently caught up with Chris to pick his brain about what drew him to such dark subject matter and what gave him the nerve to write from the perspetive of a sixteen-year-old girl.

 

WV GUMBO: Dirty Little Angels is your first novel, and yet you chose to write not only in first person narrative as a female, but an adolescent who, during the course of the narrative, has her first sexual experience. It seems to be a risky choice. What lead you to choose this narrative device? [Read more…]

French Quarter Living: Tow Truck Trials

WHERE’S WALDO?: BATTERED PICKUP TRUCK EDITION

Waldo-image_approvedSince moving into the French Quarter a week prior, my short and fitful spurts of sleep had been punctuated with restless dreams of my truck being towed. I was sure I’d sooner or later forget about Tuesday and Thursdays street cleaning, earning a hefty towing bill. Because of this paranoia I had circled my truck twice Thursday night and returned Friday morning to ensure I wasn’t in violation of street signs or painted boundaries; thus, as I stood Sunday night around midnight looking at another car parked where I’d left my truck, neither option made sense—towing my legally parked vehicle or stealing my old and battered truck.

THIS LITTLE LIGHT OF MINE: WHEN IT RAINS, IT POURS EDITION

I was certain of where I had parked but suspected police would question my memory, so I decided to canvas nearby streets on my bike. I raced home, sweating profusely and frantically muttering to myself, and quickly Googled the nearest police station (the other end of Royal) before taking off on two wheels. [Read more…]

Read Beans On Monday: Dirty Little Angels

DIRTY LITTLE AVENGING ANGEL OR N’AWLINS YOUTH GONE WILD?

Dirty Little Angels

by Chris Tusa


Dirty Little Angels is a stark portrait of the challenges of modern adolescence, particularly in a city like New Orleans where violence can be part of the social fabric and wrong turns seem to far outnumber the straight and narrow. In a bold choice by first novelist, Chris Tusa, the narrative is written from the first person perspective of 16-year-old Hailey, who is not only trapped in that limbo between child and adult we call adolescence, but in between middle-class and working poor as her family’s economic foundation rapidly slips away. Neither of her self-involved parents are currently employed. Her mother, a nurse, has succumbed to depression after a miscarriage and has little energy left to care for her two surviving children. Her father is out of work and too proud to take an interview at Wal-Mart lined up by a neighbor, but instead chooses to focus his energy on playing pool and courting a waitress at a nearby Mexican restaurant who moonlights as a stripper.

In the absence of parental guidance, Hailey turns to a best friend whose narcissism and loose morals erode her self-esteem and lead her to questionable choices, and her brother who tries to look out for her but ultimately puts both of them in physical and spiritual peril through his friendship with Moses, an ex-con who masquerades as a preacher but whose swift and violent brand of administering the Lord’s judgment leads to the novel’s jarring conclusion. Although Chase tries to play the tough big brother, it is Hailey who ultimately faces up to the violent and corrupt ‘minister,’ forcing her to face her own Dirty Little Angels.

This novel weighs in at only 147 pages, making Hailey’s journey down the road to perdition swift and jolting. The one detour on this rapid road revolves around brief friendship Hailey forms with the husband of her father’s lover who is in the hospital dying of cancer. The narrator originally tracks him down to expose his wife’s duplicity and pry her away from her father, but Hailey finds she cannot reveal the painful truth to this gentle soul facing death so bravely. This man’s calm, courage, and compassion briefly fills the gaping void in Hailey’s life, but she soon returns to find his bed empty. It is a touching interlude in an otherwise bleak tale.

With its gritty language and brash imagery, this novel is not for the faint of heart. Tusa likes to play with language and challenge his readers, but if you’re willing to go along for the rocky ride you’ll be moved by a compelling portrait of teenage depression (the narrator feels as through cockroaches are scurrying around her head) and of innocence lost. Does Hailey truly succumb to moral erosion due to a lack of a positive social framework or is she merely a survivor making difficult but brave choices to save herself and her family? Tusa raises such questions that are meant to be argued late into the night at local bars and coffee shops as readers process the shocking ending and its implications for the state of our modern world.

 

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Creole Tomato and Cajun & Zydeco Festivals, Day 2: Making Friends & Losing Trucks

HAVE FRIENDS, WILL TRAVEL

Me & Finn Dean Playing Dress Up at the Creole Tomato Festival

Me & Finn Dean Playing Dress Up at the Creole Tomato Festival

Despite my frequent misadventures, my time in New Orleans has been amazing—at times transcendent and at times trying but never boring and always providing opportunities to grow. Besides, embracing the unexpected and insane isn’t in the fine print when you move to New Orleans—it’s in bold print italics and double underlined! Thus, the bizarre housing hunt, sketchy characters, and failed expectations merely enhance the story and add a little humor. The one true challenge, however, has been attempting to start over socially. In the ten years I lived in Jacksonville I developed a rich and diverse collection of funny, intelligent, kind and supportive friends. Such connections can’t simply be replaced, yet the biggest challenge of living in north Florida was maintaining my connections with not only family but friends from high school, college, OT school, and camp I’d left behind in the mid-Atlantic triangle of West Virginia/Virginia/Maryland, not to mention a sister that lives in Massachusetts and a best friend in Wisconsin. So in moving to New Orleans, I’ve compounded this difficult distance once again.

I am outgoing and unafraid to strike up a conversation, so I have met literally thousands of people since moving to town. Still, I don’t ‘fall in’ with groups easily. I can hold a superficial conversation with nearly anyone, yet don’t instantly sync with whoever is in the vicinity like some people seem to. It takes me time to find well-rounded people I ‘click’ with, and thus the hardest part of this move has been [Read more…]

Read Beans On Monday: Frenchmen, Desire, Good Children

WHEN IT TAKES A CARTOONIST TO PAINT A FAITHFUL PORTRAIT

Frenchmen, Desire, Good Children

John Chase

New Orleans is a patchwork city woven together over centuries from former plantations and villages, resulting in a system of roads that were haphazardly designed and named over varying historical epochs. This can make for frustrated driving but great storytelling. In Frenchmen, Desire, Good Children, cartoonist John Chase reveals the city’s history through the odd, hilarious, and often sordid history of its streets. This book was first published in 1949 and is based upon lectures he began delivering while World War II still raged; thus, the language can be slightly dated, neighborhoods have sometimes grown and changed, and his racial bias (moreso regarding Native Americans) can at times make you cringe. Yet the very fact that this book remains a favorite history of the city and is in its eighth decade of print attests to the virtues that far outweigh its faults.

I re-read this book for this review and it definitely made more sense once I’d had time to navigate the city and become familiar with its layout. Still, there are plenty of humorous and colorful anticdotes to keep even the casual visitor entertained. Chase starts with the original city, the French Quarter, and follows the expansion outward, so the stories lose some of their charm as he moves to more modern sectors. There is much more history in the French Quarter and Garden District than across the river in Algiers or Westwego (the only town in the U.S. that is a complete sentence!)

The fact that a cartoonist and not historian guides this tour gives the book a jovial tone that has delighted readers for generations. For example, [Read more…]

Creole Tomato and Cajun & Zydeco Festivals, Day 1

THROWING STONES AT FESTIVALS

The Old U.S. Mint At Decatur & Esplanade

The Old U.S. Mint At Decatur & Esplanade

When I awoke Saturday, commencing my second week as a French Quarter resident, my allergy symptoms still lingered but I was gradually coping. Nights were the worst, locked up in that space that seemed so rustically quaint a few weeks prior, and I slept little but still had regained some of my energy. Thus, I went for a short bike ride and cooked a big breakfast (now having the luxury of a kitchen) before heading out to the Creole Tomato Festival and the Cajun and Zydeco Festival, both of which were a stone’s throw from my apartment.

CAJUN MOUSE, CREOLE MOUSE

Lawn Stage

Lawn Stage

The Cajun and Zydeco Festival, sponsored by the Jazz & Heritage Foundation, is held at the Old U.S. Mint where Decatur Street meets Esplanade at the French Quarter/Marigny boundary two blocks from my new place. Around noon I wandered over to the front lawn of the Old Mint where the main stage was ringed by food booths and vendors. On the opposite side of this large, red brick builidng Esplanade was closed for a second stage. A third small stage was tucked away at the Creole Tomato Festival in the French Market bordering the Old Mint.

Esplanade Stage

Esplanade Stage

Although I’m a fan of most New Orleans music, I’m not deeply into Cajun or Zydeco so I enjoyed myself but was never enthralled. For those who don’t know the difference, [Read more…]