New Orleans Tourist to New Orleans Tenant: My First Week In The French Quarter

LAST EXCITING EPISODE  . . . .

When I left off, it was Saturday evening, I had just moved into my apartment on Decatur Street, and I was heading out on a cocktail tour of the French Quarter with the extra ticket from a friend still not realizing that there were two Jakes in my building, one of whom was my new roommate.

LIVE LOCAL, ACT TOURIST

antoines-new-orleans1jpg-f48f21a2213619d6_largeThe tour itself was informative and entertaining, though fortunately free as it didn’t warrant the sticker price. Our first stop was a small but apparently popular restaurant on Royal whose name escapes me. It was named after an old opera house around the corner though there was really no historic connection. The drink we were ‘introduced’ to here was a Moscow Mule, which my professor friend mentioned last article brings to every party she attends (and doesn’t charge $9 for what is effectively a fancy highball!) At the popular but pedestrian Court of Two Sisters, I skipped the overly sweet cocktail altogether.

Krewe of Rex Room

Krewe of Rex Room

We only visited three places, but at Antoine’s we embarked on a lengthy and detailed tour. Antoine’s is an upscale Creole restaurant that is not only the oldest continually run family restaurant in New Orleans but [Read more…]

Read Beans On Monday: Up From The Cradle of Jazz

READ BEANS ON MONDAY: A NEW NEW ORLEANS TRADITION

Since thinking up this blog I’ve wanted to do weekly reviews of New Orleans books and/or authors; though commissions on books are miniscule, it’s a way to at least start earning a penny for my thoughts as well as to start branching into the literary community and make connections. The goal of doing weekly reviews is a lofty one, though. My professor friend Jen Wesely once complained her real year-long sabbatical flew by and my retired parents never have free time, and so I find My Year of Mardi Gras mysteriously flying by. Still, though I may fall short some weeks, making this a weekly ritual led naturally to the ‘Read Beans on Monday’ pun. It’s not perfect, but months of contemplation conjured nothing better (Read Bins On Monday was 2nd choice and that’s horrendous!)

Last week I blogged about stumbling into McKeown’s Books on Tchoupitoulas and the warm greeting I received. As planned, I returned Thursday  for the monthly book club where everyone simply shares the latest non-fiction they’ve finished. Everyone again was welcoming and extremely helpful, tossing out names of potential contacts when I revealed I was a writer looking to connect. After taking my turn sharing a critique of the book below, I felt it was time to finally get off my tush and start reviewing. So it begins . . . .

IF KEN BURNS WOULD HAVE TACKLED THE BIG EASY:

Up From the Cradle Of Jazz: New Orleans Music Since World War II

Jason Berry, Jonathan Foose, & Tad Jones


Up From the Cradle of Jazz is a thorough and intensive overview of New Orleans music, focusing most of its energy on [Read more…]

New Orleans Tourist to New Orleans Tenant: Moving Day Mishaps

HOUND DOG SWAN SONG

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Clearing Out

I skipped coffee and breakfast Saturday morning—my groceries were still packed up!—but didn’t want to show up before 10:00 since Debra bartended until 3a.m., so instead pulled out my acoustic guitar and sat on the porch serenading John Fohl’s dogs one last time (though they had eventually tired of howling at me). Monday night I had stopped by Dos Jefes Uptown Cigar Bar to watch John perform while I still lived nearby. He stopped by to chat before the set and caught me again a few days later as I was getting in my truck. When I asked him about that gig, he revealed he’s held it down since moving to town over a decade and a half ago. Impressive! Felling ballsy, I asked him about his solo career after parting ways with Dr. John—he’s busy gigging with other artists—and we fell into a conversation about the quirkiness and difficulty of musicians. A few years ago I had formed a ‘living room band’ with a close friend. I was fully aware of our limited talent and potential, so was shocked when egos tore us apart. Perplexed and depressed by the experience, I fell in with a small blues and R&B band where I could hide from sight and sound on rhythm guitar yet again egos and musician flakiness took their toll. I commented that if egos could be strong in such extremely amateur settings, I couldn’t imagine dealing with truly talented professionals. John just shook his head and laughed as if to say, “If you only knew…” He seems to be that rare person who is as nice as he is talented and I’m embarrassed that he’s heard me so many times on the porch fumbling on guitar; hopefully he was asleep as I serenaded his dogs one last time.

ONE MORE ABODE ON MY LONG & WINDING ROAD

20130601_092524Even though Debra had said any time after 10:00 would work, I was determined to be right on time. Thus I was fully packed by a quarter after 9, having sheepishly asked a neighbor’s roofer to help me load my futon. Thinking yesterday was my last day, I had already completed my final errand by asking Nancy the meaning of a painting hanging above the toilet that had perplexed me for months every time I went to urinate: [Read more…]

New Orleans Tourist to New Orleans Tenant: My Last Day Uptown, Deja Vu Edition

DÉJÀ VU ALL OVER AGAIN

The_ScreamFriday I was to move into my new place on Decatur Street sometime after 5:00, so around 4:00 I wandered back from my Snow Bliz and bookshop adventure, swinging by the library-in-a-mansion one last time, and started packing my truck. Yet if you’ve read any of this blog you know nothing regarding my housing search in New Orleans has gone as planned!

DÉJÀ VU ALL OVER AGAIN

The_ScreamCommunicating via text is always cause for disaster. Debra, who I’m subletting from, has been crazy busy lately moving her daughter and grandson, picking up double shifts after a co-worker’s fiancé died suddenly, and catering an upcoming wedding. I had hoped to move in Friday morning, but when she said she would be tied up in Metairie until 5:00 I took that as a soft target—99% of the time if someone says they’re busy until X o’clock they are giving you an estimate; if you show up at that exact estimated moment they’ll inevitably be halfway across town and you’ll seem overeager at best or pushy and impatient at worst. Thus, I kept checking for my phone for a message she was home, trying to play it cool.  As 5:00 neared I was over halfway through packing my truck and broke down to text and see if Debra was home. I received a shocked reply saying that I was supposed to be there . . . now. I apologized and said I’d hurry up and finish packing, but she texted back and said [Read more…]

New Orleans Tourist to New Orleans Tenant: My Last Days Uptown

THE CITY WITHIN A CITY THAT NEVER SLEEPS

20130531_150105There is a relaxed, residential feel in Uptown New Orleans that I will miss. In fact, although eager to experience life in the bustling French Quarter, I’m a little worried at how my laid back constitution will handle twenty-four bustle of this compact yet ceaselessly cosmopolitan neighborhood. Thus, I spent my last days in Uptown wandering the streets lined with tropical cottages, revisiting favorite spots and trying a few that had so far eluded me.

IL POSTO: AN UPTOWN HIDDEN GEM

20130530_141312For months I passed Il Posto, a small Italian café tucked curiously away in my Uptown residential neighborhood, but never tried it until about a month ago after it kept getting recommended. The first time I stopped in, I even walked out since they don’t have a full breakfast menu—only fruit cups and bagels with a combination of veggies, cream cheese, and lox. I returned another morning, however, with adjusted expectations and was surprised at [Read more…]

New Orleans Tourist to New Olreans Tenant: The Voice Part 3, Coffee Caused C.L.A.M.ities

POST FEST REFLECTIVE DISORDER

Chris Tusa & I Forgot To Coordinate Hats For The First Reading!

Chris Tusa & I Forgot To Coordinate Hats For The First Reading!

After my pre-Fest networking spree, Jazz Fest itself kept me busy for the next three weeks (as hopefully you’ve already read!) dancing, blogging, eating, and, well, not really drinking—I only imbibed one of my seven days, finding I had more energy and could avoid the long portalet lines. Seven days of Jazz Fest was wonderful but definitely sensory overload, which in turn set off this period of reflection.

Not that that’s a bad thing. During this lull, in addition to a short respite in Florida, I’ve found a fabulous apartment on Decatur Street, caught up on the blog and other writing, explored Uptown like a local, and connected with a group of local writers.

A WRITER FRIEND OF A WRITER FRIEND OF A WRITER FRIEND

I’ve frequently mentioned my friend, Chris Tusa, who teaches at LSU and has written an excellent debut novel set in New Orleans, Dirty Little [Read more…]

New Orleans Tourist to New Orleans Tenant: The Voice Part 2 (Blind Luck Down A Blind Alley)

TO SCHIZOPHRENIC OR NOT TO SCHIZOPHRENIC 

Titling A Post 'The Voice' Is A Fine Excuse To Include A Picture Of Shakira!

Titling A Post ‘The Voice’ Is A Fine Excuse To Include A Picture Of Shakira!

This has been my longest blogging break in a while. Although partly due to getting wrapped up in the novel I’m preparing to release on Kindle, Jeremiah’s Scrapbook, (more about that later!) it has more to do with the fact that, during this series of post titled ‘The Voice’ I’m searching for, well, my voice.

I know that sounds crazy for someone who’s already posted over 50 articles and has a unique, sarcastic way with words (see section headings) that can be an obstacle when I do freelance work for magazines that want you to conform to an anonymous, unified voice. I guess, then, what I’m seeking is not ‘a voice’ but ‘which voice.’

This Is Completely Irrelevant; I've Just Been Looking For An Excuse To Use It

This Is Completely Irrelevant; I’ve Just Been Looking For An Excuse To Use It

This blog is at times confessional (such as these last two posts), at times a travelogue, at times food and music reviews, at times an exploration of unique cultural trends such as Mardi Gras Indians or St. Joseph’s Day, and usually a blend of all the above. As I try to build a consistent audience, I’m wondering whether I’m best served with this scattershot, all-inclusive approach or if I should focus more on my difficulties and triumphs adapting to the city (confessional), my adventures in the city (vicarious), the city’s culture and oddities (reporting), or opinions on food, music and festivals (reviews). For now I’ll continue to do all the above but can’t help but wonder if, over time, one won’t stand out as ‘the voice’ I need to adopt to build a readership.

TOM PETTY: THE DALAI LAMA OF IMPATIENT BLOGGERS

My Guru

My Guru

That readership has grown (thank you, regulars), but has been averaging near forty to sixty daily page hits on average for a while.  I’ve had a few days of over a hundred hits, approaching 150, but haven’t been able to remain there and continue to climb. Hoping to grow, I’ve been out networking at every opportunity; I’ve passed out hundreds of business cards for the blog, attended book salons, reached out to local authors, talked to strangers in bars and at festivals, contacted magazines and one radio station, reached out to other bloggers, and pretty much flung myself in every direction I can think. It will take time to grow, but, as Tom Petty says, “The waiting is the hardest part.”

BY AIR(WAVES) AND BY SEE (ME, NOT EMAIL)

4.23.13 Old Coffee PotI had one particularly promising day right before Jazz Fest where it seemed the stars were aligning. I hopped on my bike in Uptown and after a stop by the Superdome to buy my tickets, peddled into the French Quarter for a lovely breakfast in The Old Coffee Pot, not realizing that such courtyard breakfasts would be in reach every day since at the time I had no intentions to ever move to the Quarter. Afterwards, I stopped by WWOZ, the local public radio station that is a fierce supporter of local music, regularly inviting local musician on the air. Even though they were busy passing out festival ‘Brass Passes,’ I was greeted enthusiastically, given and tour, and introduced to the operations director as though they had a true interest in my project.

4.23.13 Me at Old Coffee PotNext I stopped by Offbeat. I’d been emailing with follow-up pitches ever since my Krewe of Rocckus article with no response. Fortunately the editor was in and once I had him face-to-face, he easily agreed to some Jazz Fest reviews and a story on a Robin Barnes. He also seemed optimistic the website could link my articles back to my blog. Score!

WHEN DUCKING DOWN A BLIND ALLY ON A STRANGER’S ADVICE ACTUALLY WORKS OUT

City Cycle Works

And, Alas, A Bike Shop Appeared From The East

Next I took a bike ride toward the lake to scout the Fairgrounds for Jazz Fest, though my luck took a seeming turn for the worse when I blew a tire, pulling out my phone to discover the closest bike shop was miles away across the bayou. Steaming, I started the long trek pushing my bike, stopping at a service station to futilely pump the tire and later asking a guy with a truck outside a convenience store for a lift (he wasn’t going my way and didn’t really seem to care.)

Heading down Orleans Avenue through a part of the city that I wasn’t familiar with and that didn’t seem the worst but didn’t seem the best either, a young man stopped to chat. When I told him I had a flat, he pointed down a road to a cluster of industrial buildings and said, “There’s a bike shop back there. Just cross the railroad tracks and go behind that big warehouse.”  I was a little wary. It didn’t like the place where any business would be, let alone a bike shop. Was there someone waiting back there to clock me and take my money? Did he know I was broke?! I cautiously eased down the road as he watched and yelled directions from afar, walking in the middle to leave space between me and anyone lurking around the corner. When I finally rounded to the back of the large, rusty warehouse sure enough there was a little bike shop in an open garage—no frills. I had to wait for the guy to get back from lunch, but he treated me fair, did a good job, and turned out to be an entertaining eccntric, claiming to be the first registered Libertarian in Louisiana.

IF LENNON & MCCARTNEY HAD MET IN A BIKE SHOP

Ok, It Was Actually At A Garden Party

Ok, It Was Actually At A Garden Party

As he worked on my bike, a guy came in cursing and pushing his street bike, threw it on a rack, and began changing his tire. “You’re quite comfortable here,” I said with a laugh. He smiled and said he used to work there but had recently returned to his previous life as a singer/songwriter. We started talking music, politics, and life in general, swapping business cards to perhaps get together and collaborate. Later I listened to his stuff online and was quite impressed so made a point to stop by one of his regular gigs.

I never heard back from any of my follow-up queries to WWOZ, despite their enthusiams, and Offbeat continues to be difficult to reach, though I do have an article and review coming out this weekend and am interviewing Robin Barnes Monday; for some reason, though, I doubt I’ll ever get those back-links to my blog. Tonight I’m heading over to Vince’s, the bike shop musician, to jam and see if we hit on any worthy ideas. It’s two steps forward and one back, but progress all the same.

TO BE CONTINUED….

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New Orleans Tourist to New Orleans Tenant: The Voice Part 1 (Existential Sonar Pings)

PICTURESQUE TROPICAL FRAMES

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Strolling Tropical Streets

Although I’m back in New Orleans, my need to reflect and process continues after months of frantic, unrelenting madness running from Mardi Gras to Jazz Fest, so to clear my head this morning I ambled through quaint back streets of Uptown for a long stroll to Slim Goodies for breakfast with Trombone Shorty on my i-pod. I returned last night in time for this repeat appearance by Trombone Shorty & Orleans Avenue at Wednesdays in the Square following their triumphant set closing out Jazz Fest, and I was still buzzing this morning from their bouncing melodies. The summer heat and humidity is just setting in, prompting a light and pleasant sweat, and the air was filled with fragrant blooming flowers I can’t identify but that stir my soul nonetheless. As I wandered along my eyes feasted on the vibrant and historic architecture that these spring blooms enveloped in picturesque tropical frames.

Victorian Gothic

Victorian Gothic

In Bloom

In Bloom

WEALTH WITHOUT VISION VS WEIRDNESS ON STERIODS

Slim Goodies for Breakfast After 40 Minute Stroll

Slim Goodies for Breakfast After 40 Minute Stroll

I moved here from tropical north Florida yet in nearby Ponte Vedra Beach, the richest enclave north of West Palm, the limitless money on display displays no imagination. I have always been disillusioned by the prominent faux-Spanish McMansions that are photo-copied and crowded along the shore as monuments to wealth without vision. To the south, St. Augustine provides a welcome contrast with its tropical gardens, southern Victorian porch-and-column architecture, and artistic quirkiness. Uptown New Orleans is more like the latter if St. Augustine had bred like rabbits and juiced up its weirdness and creativity on ‘roids.

Tropical Sidewalks In Bloom

Tropical Sidewalks In Bloom

Who Wouldn't Want To Live In This House With These Street Corner Names?

Who Wouldn’t Want To Live In This House With These Street Corner Names?

 

 

 

 

MAGNIFICENT MANSIONS, QUAINT COTTAGES, & VISUAL NON-SEQUITURS

Candy Land!

Candy Land!

The Garden District is the most famous iteration of Victorian southern architecture in New Orleans with it’s mansions of towering columns, wrapping wooden porches, massive shuttered windows revealing peeks into elegant parlors, and lush gardens; yet all of Uptown reflects this aesthetic if to a smaller, quainter scale.

20130523_112347Granted, current denizens can’t take credit for the historic architecture, but they have embraced the spirit. There is no cookie-cutter conformity in this city where it’s a virtue to stand out and march to a different drum. Each house is unique, as is every street, and every resident seeks to add their own touch. As I perused this individuality on display one house caught my attention and I had to stop for a photograph. The rocking chairs and tropical vegetation brought to mind Key West while the beads hanging from the Medieval porch ornament and colorful wreath by the door were pure New Orleans (as was the decorative iron fence). Yet that rusty suit of armor provided a pleasant thematic non sequitur perhaps hinting at some unknown predilection by the owner. Such tiny but captivating details are the fuel that fire a writer’s imagination. There may be a short story hiding on that front porch just waiting for my discovery.

FIESTY FIFTIES, SULTRY SIXTIES, & JIVE AT SEVENTY-FIVE

20130522_183247In much of the world creativity is the domain of youth but in this city age is no excuse for a fading imagination. During Jazz Fest I was thrilled to see twenty-somethings sing along to Billy Joel and Fleetwood Mac. In contrast, last night as Trombone Shorty turbo-charged his jazz with hard rock, driving funk, hip-hop rhythms, and rap-inflected lyrics, there were locals in their fifties and sixties dancing joyously along; seventy-five year old legend Allen Toussaint even came on stage to lead a call-and-response rap.

20130522_190603I’ve always felt that if you only listen to the music of your generation then you don’t love music—you love fitting in. Nowhere is this more apparent than in this city where past and future collide on a daily basis. I’ve said it time and time again—people who think New Orleans is stuck in the past are fools. This is a city mines the beauty and wisdom of the past as it thoughtfully wades into the future as opposed to rushing forward without direction.

BULGING GUTS, BURSTING INSEAMS, & JAZZ HAND WHERE THEY SHOULDN’T BE

610 Stompers On Parade

610 Stompers On Parade

As for the need to stand out, there can be few better examples of the 610 Stompers who took the stage before Trombone Shorty. Mardi Gras parade staples, this group of young to middle-aged men wear knee socks, head bands, nylon short shorts, and seventies color-contrast t-shirts, executing dance routines filled with hip thrusts that accentuate bulging waists and bursting back inseams, leg kicks of unathletic grace and height, and jazz hands where jazz hands shouldn’t be. Composed mostly of professionals, these men certainly aren’t making money but are becoming parade favorites. This city rewards weirdness and these guys have found a way to be of New Orleans even while working very American corporate day jobs.

610 Stompers On Stage

610 Stompers On Stage

I have always beaten a unique path, so this celebration of weirdness drew me here as much as the embrace of deeper culture, and this melding of high art and lowball self-expression unfolded in perfect metaphor as the 610 Stompers ceded the stage to perhaps the city’s most talented and promising young musician. While he’s clearly an entertainer with his brash, engaging, and—I’ll just say it—badass swagger, at twenty-seven Trombone Shorty also displays the musical depth and genius of a legend in the making. It was a transcendent moment and just another night in New Orleans.

EXISTENTIAL SONAR PINGS

Iowa Gumbo? Another Competing Voice

Iowa Gumbo?
Another Competing Voice

Thus I’m basking in the moment, living in a city where every walk is a visual feast; every bar a sonic awakening; every meal a gustatory temptation; and every day an infinite promise of the strange and unanticipated. Yet living in the presence of such brilliance can also inspire existential sonar pings, bouncing your self-doubt off unseen shadows in the future’s murky depths. Some days I feel quietly confident while others I fear I’m just mildly delusional as I actively and aggressively seeking to connect with the local creative scene, sniffing whiffs of imminent triumph that are always followed by reminders of ‘two steps forward, one step back.’ Thus as I walk I reflect and wonder if I can find The Voice in this chaotic chorus of competing counter melodies to forge these writings into something more than just a personal indulgence.

TO BE CONTINUED . . . .

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New Orleans Tourist to New Orleans Tenant: Red Beans On Monday

YET YOU WON’T FLOCK TO SALT LAKE CITY, WILL YOU?

My First Pot Of Red Beans On Monday In New Orleans

My First Pot Of Red Beans On Monday In New Orleans

In my last post I mentioned how the New Orleans ‘Red Beans on Monday’ tradition was both a conduit for my transition from New Orleans Tourist to New Orleans Tenant as well as a metaphor and illustration of the peculiar challenges that unique to this peculiar place. Let’s face it, while people who grew up here tend to be hopefully devoted to New Orleans and others like me fall in love and flock here, this city has its share of infuriating and frustrating quirks to go along with its inviting and captivating quirkiness.

One of the best editorials I read regarding post-Katrina ineptitude (I could kick myself for not clipping it) was, I believe, in the New York Times. It was about a year or two out and the public outrage was growing as corruption and blunders came to light regarding the distribution of relief and rebuilding funds. Yet the author pointed out that dysfunction and corruption have always been present in the city. Its untamed spirit and unpredictability is what draws scores of fascinated visitors, many of whom choose to stay and embrace the madness. He wasn’t arguing that improvements and reforms shouldn’t be made, but just that you can’t expect to entirely tame New Orleans, especially when it’s that rebel, lusty nature that draws you in the first place. If you want neat and orderly, he concluded, [Read more…]

New Orleans Tourist to New Orleans Tenant: The Hillbilly Hemingway Finds A Room With A View

‘HILLBILLY HEMINGWAY’ FINDS A ROOM WITH A VIEW

Rooftops WindowGood news! I found a place to live after months of dead ends and frustration. And it’s in, of all places, the French Quarter. I never thought I’d ever actually move there, largely searching in more residential neighborhoods like Irish Channel and Lower Garden District, but responded to an ad on a whim. The rent was reasonable and the roommate was going to be mostly absent, staying with her daughter, so when she responded with pictures that included this view I had to check it out.

Although skeptical as a lady dropped me the key from the third floor balcony, allowing me to let myself into the narrow wire and pipe ridded service ally, I was instantly seduced by the Hemingway-esque panorama when I topped the stairs out back. The bedroom for rent would look out to this view as does the bath, and most of those rooftops are part of [Read more…]