GEAUX-ING LOCAL (& Distant Wooing): How I Spent My Thanksgiving Break

SOMETHING OLD, SOMETHING NEW

CB ThanksgivingIt’s been a while since I’ve posted about my New Orleans experiences. Earlier in the autumn I grew inconsistent with the Read Beans on Monday reviews but was busy and had plenty to report. Conversely, the past few weeks I’ve been diligent about the book reviews but haven’t had much to share otherwise.

This is true mostly because while things have slowed down I’ve been hunkered down to focus on a couple of projects that I hope will bear fruit. During this period I’ve been holding back a post on the Morpheus meeting I attended in late October while awaiting requested revisions from the Krewe Captain to my previous piece on meeting him at Rock-n-Bowl, as he feared he said too much! In addition to staying active with the social rides that I did post about, I’ve attended several literary events such as the Louisiana Book Festival in Baton Rouge and a few events suggested by Fleur de Lit, hit different bars to find the perfect spot to watch Saints games, and hosted a few successful ‘Red Beans on Monday’ gatherings. Otherwise, I hunkered down and tried to be extra-studious before departing on holiday travel where I’ve tried to steal as many moments as I can. The focus of this ‘hunkering down has been on developing a new book and trying to revise an re-market and old one.

SOMETHING (THAT CAN BE) BORROWED


While My Year of Mardi Gras continues to evolve in mission and focus, it evolved perhaps most radically over 10 months of pre-planning. Initially I toyed with the idea of [Read more…]

Halloween in New Orleans, The NOLA Social Ride, & All Hallows Happenstance

THE ACCIDENTALIST BICYCLIST

This Painting Is Currently Up For Bidding In A Silent Auction . . .

This Painting Is Currently Up For Bidding In A Silent Auction . . .

My last post (excepting the book review) detailed my experience with local bicycle club the Crescent City Cruzers, and the first Thursday I had planned to meet up with CCC (before being discouraged by the weather) they were doing a joint ride with the NOLA Social Ride’s ‘Happy Thursday Ride.’ Yes, there are two groups of bikers that dress in theme and hit the streets on Thursday nights yelling “Happy Thursday!” though I would later learn, not surprisingly, they started as one. For the sake of comparison and contrast, I had vaguely planned on joining the NOLA Social Ride sometime, but it turns out planning wasn’t necessary for Halloween night I ended up riding with them completely by accident!

PEER PRESSURE IS A (BALD) BE-YOTCH

As my first Halloween in New Orleans dawned I so excited that I shaved my head.

Breaking Bad!

Breaking Bad!

Literally.

For the Halloween weekend I’d updated my pirate costume after stumbling into a cool costume shop in the Quarter, but had previously ordered a pork pie hat intending to go as [Read more…]

New Orleans Bicycle Clubs: The Crescent City Cruzers

SPONTANEOUS MINI-PARADES OF UNDETERMINED ROUTE

Mobile Selfie During the Chewbacchus Ride

Mobile Selfie During the Chewbacchus Ride

Social rides’ such as the bike parade I joined for my first Chewbacchus adventure are popular occurrences in New Orleans. A social ride is where group of people take to the streets with decked out bicycles, often in costume, for mini-parades of undetermined route, blocking traffic along the way. Why? In New Orleans, the answer is always Why not?

Chewbachhus Rolls:  All Hail The Sacred Drunken Wookie!

Chewbachhus Rolls:
All Hail The Sacred Drunken Wookie!

I had been aspiring for a while to join in on a ride, my appetite whetted by the Chewbacchus parade, when friend and long-time reader, Ann, sent me a link to the Crescent City Cruzers Facebook page. My initial attempts to meet them, though, though were thwarted for a month by rain and other plans, so when I drove back from Florida one Thursday in mid-October I told myself I had to suck it up and hit the pocked pavement after my nine-hour drive. During October CCC was meeting at Armstrong Park for the Jazz in the Park series, and I was looking forward to seeing Jon Cleary that night, but once I unpacked and hit the couch, my motivation dissolved. I’d gotten up early after getting to bed late, but it was a beautiful Autumn night so I told myself I’d be glad once I pushed through the exhaustion. I certainly, though, wasn’t going to bike all the way from my home about as far Uptown you can get with dry feet all they way to the French Quarter, so tossed my bike in my truck telling myself I could just drive back if I didn’t perk up by music’s end.

THE HUMILIATION OF NOT ACTING LIKE A CLOWN

2013-10-17 20.08.17I didn’t realize there was a weekly theme as I rolled up, but I assumed the group of people dressed like [Read more…]

MYOMG Guide to the Best (And Worst) Halloween Decorations in Uptown New Orleans

One House Wasn't Afraid to Show Their 'Skeletons In The Closet'

One House Wasn’t Afraid to Show Their ‘Skeletons In The Closet’

I always get excited like a little kid when Halloween decorations start popping up all over town and, knowing New Orleans‘ reputation for going to extremes, I knew I’d be in for a treat my first year here. Perhaps the best Halloween city I’ve lived in prior was Richmond, Virginia where people in ‘The Fan,’ a triangular neighborhood of turn-of-the-century row houses that would fit in Uptown architecturally, culturally, and even physically (New Orleans is composed of pie pieces rather than blocks, like a Trivial Pursuit marker in a Salvador Dali painting!), decorate with abandon, particularly on Hanover Street (I believe) where practically every resident gets in on the act creating unbroken block after block of creepy fun.

This House Will Strike Your Funny Bone

This House Will Strike Your Funny Bone

Although the decorations in this town are some of the best I’ve seen, I was disappointed to find they weren’t concentrated anywhere such as Hanover Street. In fact, I only came across one intersection where all four house are decorated. So I took off on my bike and spent the past few weeks scouring Uptown so I could share the best Halloween decorations with you to help with your holiday hunting.

But You Have To Read To The End

But You Have To Read To The End

But first, a few clarifications. My definition of Uptown was broad. I biked down every street running along the river between and including Tchoupitoulas and St. Charles from riverbend to Callipoe/CBD. Although I didn’t hit every cross street (though I did hit the major ones where I noticed decoration density) I did pass every intersection and peer down every block. I’m sure there’s something I missed, but I was pretty thorough. Above St. Charles, because of street geography, I hit every street running towards the river from the riverbend past Carrollton to Napoleon, all the way up to Claiborne.

To Find The Location Of This House

To Find The Location
Amongst 7 Must-see Stops

I provide a location so you can find all these places, and use directional terms not according to the compass, but New Orleans style. Thus, East mean toward Downtown, West Uptown. North is towards the lake and South towards the river.

Some decorations went up late, and I later passed through areas that I’d scouted earlier to find new displays. While I included these, I didn’t purposefully double back through all areas. Also, peering down side streets isn’t a perfect method, though most good decorations stand out from a distance. The biggest drawback were night decorations. I did most of my biking by day, and unnoticed places turned into masterpieces at night. Once I realized this, I scouted again by truck and bike again, though less thoroughly. Fortunately lights are visible at great distances so I did the best I could though I’m sure I missed a few prime spots.

So that being said, please enjoy the MYOMG 2013 Uptown Halloween Decorations Guide & Awards and be sure to scroll to the end for the 7 Must See Haunts! [Read more…]

Halloween Weekend in New Orleans, Part 2: An Epic Krewe de Boo-Boo

IF I’VE TOLD YOU ONCE . . .

2013-10-26 17.26.10Growing up, I often remember my parents saying: “If I’ve told you once, I’ve told you a thousand times . . .” before reiterating some life lesson. Well, New Orleans might as well just come out and say, “If I’ve told you once, I’ve told you a thousand times, you can’t plan things in this city, you just have to let the magic come to you.”

And Friday had been a magical day with Camellia Grill being an experience my 13-year-old guest will long remember, later followed by an unexpected to bloodletting to add a little real life fright to our night. The day had been more sublime than I could have hoped to engineer, but Saturday I wasn’t leaving things to chance. I had our night at the big Krewe of Boo parade planned out perfectly.

I should have known I was screwed. [Read more…]

Halloween Weekend In New Orleans, Part 1: New Eyes & Old Fears

THE MOST FRIGHTENING THING OF ALL

2013-10-26 22.16.12

A Nightmare on Magazine Street

Halloween has long been my favorite holiday, challenged only when I first came to New Orleans just prior to the turn of the millennium to become a Mardi Gras maniac. Christmas is the sentimental standard-bearer in most of American culture, but I’ve always said that Christmas is for kids, whereas Halloween is for adults to act like kids. Since I don’t have children to help keep my Christmas spirit alive, Halloween wins in a landslide. Still, as I wrote in my last post about the Audubon Aquarium, as much as I nurture my inner child and fight becoming curmudgeon, it’s difficult not to lose some to the wonder of the seasonal celebrations that hold so much meaning in my life. Perhaps that’s why I hold on so fiercely, afraid that if I lose my attachment to that seasonal rhythm that I’ll fade into yet another uninspired drone drifting towards death.

This year in particular, though, is my chance to rekindle the wonder since New Orleans is not only Mardi Gras central but a top worldwide Halloween destination with a history steeped in voodoo and haunts. The weekend before Halloween is as big as the holiday itself, and I had the chance to not only see the holiday but the city itself anew through the eyes of a child . . . err, teenage; after all, what can be more frightening than [Read more…]

My Krewe Debut: Mor-pheus Fun, Less Drama

DESPERATELY SEEKING KREWESMAN

All Hail The King! (And Happy Birthday!!!)

All Hail The King!
(And Happy Birthday!!!)

After months of searching, querying, and inquiring like Desperately Seeking Krewes-man, Friday night I finally met members of my new home in Krewe of Morpheus. In addition to the monthly meetings that started in August, Morpheus holds two majors social event: The Captain’s Crawl in the French Quarter every spring and this night of booze, buffet, and bowling at Rock-n-Bowl.

The event was scheduled from 7:00-9:30 and I arrived at a quarter after, somehow missing this landmark near my home that I’ve passed a hundred times. Paul Leman, the Morpheus president (I wonder if he has brothers in banking?!), was taking names at the door as I arrived. He asked what float I was on and I shrugged. “Kim . . . something.” I then added that I’d been emailing with Connie Hibben, the membership director who recently gave me the green light to use names, and explained how I joined to blog my experience. He introduced himself and pointed out the lanes reserved for the Krewe and our buffet table, promising to come over and make introductions once he was settled.

TKO BY GUMBO 

The Krewe Congregates

The Krewe Congregates

I spent a few minutes weaving through groups gathered to bowl or just chat, but was a little reticent about making an approach. “Hello, I’m Eric and I just joined out of the blue not knowing a dang soul!” I might as well tattoo NEWBIE on my forehead. I did attempt a few stunted introductions before realizing my admission covered beer and wine, so I fled to the bar and then started mowing through shrimp crostini, mini-pizza’s, chicken wings, and jambalaya. Once again, New Orleans 1, Restraint & Healthy Eating 0!

Fortunately Paul soon wandered over and introduced me to the Krewe Captain, John Beninate who is so Mardi Gras that if he were in an accident, EMTs would have to hang three different blood bags: purple, green, and gold.

John & Judy

John & Judy

John reminded me of [Read more…]

From Sudden Super Heroes to Ubiquitous Saints & Bearded Legends: Weirdness & Wonder in New Orleans

SUPERMAN, MEET WONDER (& WEIRDNESS) WOMAN

2013-10-05 17.00.30It’s been a busy three weeks since my birthday though not much of this wonder and weirdness has coalesced into blog posts. Tonight, though, I finally met my Morpheus mates at Rock-n-Bowl and I’m excited for the true kick off to My Year of Mardi Gras (though that’s how I felt about the Chewbacchus kickoff that turned out to be somewhat of a dud). In between turning 20 for the third time and tonight’s Mardi Gras meet-up, I did have a weekend that seemed to encompass all the wonder and weirdness that makes New Orleans such a unique city all in one compact weekend. In fact, if this sensuous city had a an alter ego, it’s be Wonder & Weirdness Woman.

SUPER PIRATES & ADULT UNDEROOS

It’s always more natural to shirk productivity and explore your own town when you have a visitor. This was the case the weekend before last when my college friend Mike drove in from Pensacola. We have roots deeper than a bayou Cypress so when he apologized about our miscommunication during my pre-birthday stop in Pensacola I just laughed it off. It was just a catalyst for an unanticipated adventure, and I’ll always associate that all night drive to an obscured beach sunrise with this landmark birthday.

camelliagrill3Mike arrived too late Friday night for two old farts to head out, so we stayed up late chatting.  Saturday, after a late start and amazing breakfast at the famous Camellia Grill, one of the best ‘greasy spoons’ in the nation where the fast talking waiters are as much a draw as the canoe-sized omelets, we set off on a frantic mission. My writer and LSU professor friend Chris had for years shared pictures of the annual Super Hero Bar Crawl that one of his best friends hosts on his birthday, and now that I’m in town had sent me an evite which I managed to not read until Thursday night. A Super Hero Bar Crawl is [Read more…]

Making the Krewe Cut: My Year of Mardi Gras Joins a Krewe

morpheus-iris-01. . . the Krewe of Morpheus!”

My heart pounded with excitement as I resumed my seat in Panera after startling the entire breakfast crowd and reread the response more carefully the second time.

Hi Eric,

I am sorry it took me so long to get back with you. Life is Crazy!

I read your Blog and see what you are doing—go ahead & put me down as the Lieutenant. I will put you with my float to make sure you have a fantastic time. I mean, everyone has a great time, but this way I will be able to help answer any questions you may have along the way!! You will be on a Super Float—The float will be one of two that holds 60 riders!!

Your Blog is great. I read it off & on all day yesterday. As long as you do not write anything negative, I can connect you with people in our origination that may give you some inside to the ins & outs of the back side of Mardi Gras. A lot of stuff people don’t know about.

I am looking forward to sharing this experience with you!! You will have a blast!!

Morpheus patch blueAs I reveled in this belated birthday news, I did not yet realize that the Krewe of Morpheus derived its name from the Greek and Roman god of dreams. Origin of the word ‘morph,’ Morpheus can assume any shape he desires while you sleep to provide wisdom or reveal the future. Morpheus’s job is to literally make your dreams come true. How appropriate! Apparently I was on the correct path with my pursuit of orpheus, it’s just that in true Sesame Street fashion I needed [Read more…]

A Krewe X 2: And So It Begins . . .

EXPECT THINGS NOT TO GO AS EXPECTED

09-28-13 Bike Ride Me

‘Selfie’ Taken During the Chewbacchus 2014 Kickoff Bike Ride

Although my vision of My Year of Mardi Gras has always been to paint a broad, layered portrait of New Orleans and its food, music, people, and culture, the heart of my mission upon embarking was to join at least one Mardi Gras Krewe and document that experience. Since arriving in town on February 6th, though, my path has taken many unexpected twists and turns.

My dramatic housing search, in particular, lasted over half the year. Attempts to reach out to other blogs, volunteer at WWOZ or the Jazz & Heritage Foundation, or promote the site though handing out cards and pure force of personality at local events paid little dividends. On the other hand, I’ve had much more success than anticipated connecting with local authors and encountered unexpected enthusiasm with resurrecting an old novel. Now working with someone to resubmit this book for publication has been a major unexpected endeavor. I have also met a small but growing group of talented and intriguing artists and intellectuals that have made ‘Red Beans on Monday’ an emerging success. So there have been surprises and disappointments, and I should have known that the only thing you can plan on is that things won’t go as planned. Still, somewhere amidst these triumphs and tribulations I began to fear I’d lost sight of that core mission.

Until I received [Read more…]