My Day of Mardi Gras, Part 3: Drawn & French Quartered

RAIN, RUN-OFF, & OTHER SUBSTANCES YOU’D RATHER NOT IDENTIFY (WHAT ARE PIRATE HOBOS MADE OF?)

Crossing Canal

Crossing Canal

As I reached Canal Street, newly baptized in hot chocolate and ready to cross into the Quarter, I found myself trapped.  The truck parade was still limping along (it had started around noon and it was now past 4pm!) down roads lined with metal barricades.  Emerging from St. Charles, the parade turned up Canal, rolling out of sight and creating a blockade that could take miles to circumnavigate. My feet were already throbbing and my cold certainly wasn’t improving. I’d spent over two hours and countless miles to get this far, so law and order would have to accommodate me at this point rather than vice versa.

Police presence, however, was strong this close to parade ground zero, for there is always a crush of tourists and over-enthusiastic locals on Canal Street radiating up and down the blocks adjacent to Bourbon.  I headed north until I saw that people were beginning to leap barriers and rush up to floats with outstretched arms.  Reaching a point where the breach was large enough to provide cover, I leaned over the iron railing and sat my hobo pack on a discarded, crushed box.  Rain was still misting down and the streets–notorious for potholes in this town–were covered with puddles of rain, run-off, and other substances you’d rather not identify, [Read more…]

Up-Lifted At Lundi Gras (Are You WITH ME?!?!)

Monday morning I awoke for the last time in my big, comfy bed in the Hilton with a cold still clawing at my throat thanks to Saturday night’s debauchery; but I at last felt rested and filled with possibility.  Today, after all, was Lundi Gras.

YES MA’AM, THOSE ARE IN FACT BLACK MEN IN BLACK FACE

Kings of Rex & Zulu Meet On a Drizzly Mardi Gras (Thus apologies for fuzzy photography!)

Kings of Rex & Zulu Meet On a Drizzly Lundi Gras

For most of its history, the day before Mardi Gras was an off-day filled with scarce activity.  In 1987, however, the King of Rex, Mardi Gras’ oldest Krewe that parades Mardi Gras morning, resumed an old tradition of arriving via boat the day before Mardi Gras.  At the same time, a journalist had stumbled on an obscure term used in a remote neighborhoods and attached it to the festivities.  Thus Lundi Gras (Fat Monday) was born and carnival season took its next quantum leap forward.  The revived arrival now took place at the gigantic Riverwalk Marketplace (what would have seemed science fiction absurdity in the early twentieth century when Rex last arrived via water) and grew into a day of concerts and festivities.  Soon King of Zulu began to meet with the King of Rex upon his arrival, though I’ve yet to stumble upon just how far back this tradition dates.  Zulu, an African-American organization born out of defiance much like the Indians, is the second-oldest marching Krewe, thus making this meeting a mildly reassuring gesture (though only mildly ’cause it feels like just that–a gesture) of racial unity during an event largely dominated by white riders wearing hoods and robed costumes (no one said Mardi Gras can’t be oddly creepy too.)  Of all these robed and hooded parade costumes, Rex’s are the most regal, but their lack of clownishness actually gives them more implied menace, and it doesn’t help that Rex’s lieutenants ride on horseback. [Read more…]

Down & Out On Bourbon Street….

BIRTHING ART & PETRI-FODDER

Pam Tusa w/her husband--A direct descendant of Serpico & Jesus Christ!

Pam Tusa w/her husband–A direct descendant of Serpico & Jesus Christ!

At the end of our last exciting episode it was early Sunday evening and I was wandering down Poydras in solitude on my way to meet up with Chris and Pam Tusa,  friends from Baton Rouge.  Chris, a writer with an actual published book, Dirty Little Angels (like that means anything!), grew up in New Orleans.  Although locals generally avoid Bourbon Street like day-old crawfish (especially during Mardi Gras) Chris was drawing us into the fray with good reason.

I keep preaching like a vexed televangelist that Bourbon Street, while worth a glimpse into the total breakdown of social decorum and personal restraint, is not New Orleans or Mardi Gras.  A carnival of the bizarre and unrestrained, it’s definitely entertaining for a short while, but unless you’re the type who feels empowered by yelling at strange women to show their boobs for cheap plastic trinkets, you just don’t want to stay there.  Remnants still stand of what Bourbon once was–stoically defying modern comercial opportunism–such as the elegant and locally revered Creole institution Galatoire’s (GAL-a-twah-z) or Preservation Hall, the sparse yet historic jazz club just a few steps off Bourbon; but, for the most part, t-shirt and daiquiri shops and seedy strip clubs long-ago claimed Bourbon for tourists looking for an excuse.  Not to say New Orleans was ever angelic.  The famous Storyville district where jazz was born was known for red light establishments and rough-housing patrons; but it also gave birth to Jazz!, [Read more…]

Sunday, Bloody Mary Sunday….

ANYONE GET THE TAGS OF THAT FLOAT THAT HIT ME?

'Thoth Tut' KINGS was the theme of this year's parade.

‘Thoth Tut’
KINGS was the theme of this year’s parade.

Since arriving in New Orleans I have had trouble sleeping.  Excitement?  Nerves?  Over-stimulation?  Probably all the above.  But after dancing deep into the wee hours of Sunday morning at Blue Nile for an encore performance of Big Sam’s Funky Nation, I was toast.  It was well after 11am before I rolled out of bed Sunday and I immediately regretted the late night.  My throat was sore, my head throbbing, and I ached all over like I’d been run over by the record 8-float trailer Endymion had debuted during the parade last night that we couldn’t quite see. [Read more…]

Rocckus Wrap-Up & Final Verdict (I Just Knew)….

Although Krewe of Rocckus ended with the House of Blues show Saturday night, I decided to lump the two concert reviews together and save Saturday afternoon’s cruise on the Creole Queen for the finale.  After all, every traditional drama ends with either a death or marriage, so read on to see how our tale concludes.

First, however, let me take a moment to wrap-up and reflect.

MARDI GRAS CLUE: JOHN ELWAY IN THE BONEFISH WITH A SHARPIE

Waiting To Cruise The Mississippi

Waiting To Cruise The Mississippi

Considering how packed with activity and camaraderie KoR is, it’s a little weird how suddenly it ends, especially considering it’s three more days until Fat Tuesday excess defers to Ash Wednesday chastity.  Saturday night after the show, Rocckus is simply over.  Although several group members headed to the Blue Nile to keep the party going, most went to bed and flew out the next morning.  A few attendees did stay for the holiday, some of whom I kept running into well into Mardi Gras night; but for the most part the krewe just fizzled out.  The welcome brunch was wonderful, and a departure brunch on Sunday morning would have provided nice closure much like horseback policemen clearing Bourbon Street at midnight Mardi Gras officially ends carnival.

That being said, I give KoR a solid [Read more…]

And The Roccktail Winner Is: The Rocck-ito!

NOT NEAR AS CHALLENGING AS A TWO-SYLLABLE WORD

Your Roccktail, Sir

Your Roccktail, Sir

In their emails leading up to the event, Krewe of Rocckus’s awesome organizers, Ashley, Ashley, Brian, and Maggie (advanced apologies if I screwed up names or left anyone out, but it was an open bar on the Creole Queen, after all!) gave some hints about the Roccktail contest that would be held at the welcome brunch, but in the end, it was really no contest.  Word is Michael Jerome pouted a bit last year after his team came in second for everything and he was eager to return with a winner.  Either luck or the Patron Saint of Mardi Gras Mojo was on his side, for one of the two sent him fifteen year bartender and food services professional Sally Baker to save the day. [Read more…]

Rocckus Out With Your Cocktail Out!

TYPE D-

Steven & Brandi and Kelly & Michael Saving Me A Seat At the Welcome Brunch

Steven & Brandi and Kelly & Michael Saving Me A Seat At the Welcome Brunch

After rushing to Lucy’s the previous evening only to arrive unfashionably early, yesterday I wandered over to Manning’s, the new sports bar opened by Archie just across from the Hilton, ten minutes comfortably late for the welcome brunch only to find a long food line and the unavailability of a single seat in our second floor perch.  Doh!  Apparently the rhythm method just isn’t my thang, as I just can’t get my timing right.

Cajun Salve for the Creole Soul

Cajun Salve for the Creole Soul

It would take more than a seating shortage to dampen my spirits, however, and what better salve for the soul than shrimp & grits, sliders, fried catfish, and beef tacos?!  After filling two tiny plates to the point of overflow (did you really think I’d fall for that small plate trick?!), I headed out to the balcony where I found one last hidden seat with two couples that were reconnecting from Rocckus 2012.  Par for the course, we fell into easy conversation and became fast friends.  KoR is quality peeps—all killer, no filler!  As I chatted with Brandi & Steven and Kelly & Michael, they questioned me about my crazy scheme and [Read more…]