French Quarter Living: Holiday Hanging & Restaurant Reviews

MANDINA’S: OLD STYLE CREOLE ITALIAN FOR AN OLD SOUL

mandinasSince my visiting friend was proud of her Italian and Creole heritage, I headed immediately from the airport to Mandina’s, an 80-year-old Creole Italian institution on Canal in Mid-City. There is a huge Sicilian population in New Orleans (see St. Joseph’s Day) so Creole cooking has a heavy Italian influence along with its French (colonization) and African (exploitation) roots. Thus, it’s common to see red sauces—or ‘red gravy’—on the menu with fried seafood po-boys and gumbo, and the Muffuletta sandwich now ubiquitous locally was created by the Italian Central Market Grocery back when the French Market was an active and thriving Italian food and produce stand rather than the t-shirt and trinket bazaar of today.

Mandina'sI first tried Mandina’s right after Mardi Gras when I was sick and staying in the CBD. At the time I could barely breathe and couldn’t taste anything but the fried oyster po-boy I ordered there was the only thing I mildly enjoyed. Since their food tasted good when nothing did I couldn’t wait to try it in good health.

Mandina’s is an old open house with white table clothes on square tables and pictures on the wall—classic old style New Orleans. Our waitress had a thick ‘Yat’ accent (Brooklyn meets [Read more…]

Independence Day (& the 4th of July) In The French Quarter

JULY 2nd INDEPENDENCE DAY (REPRISE)

7.3.22 Liuzza's BBQ Poboy

A Happy Ending, N’Awlins Style!

When I awoke Tuesday July 2nd, or Independence Day as I came to know it, Jake was already shuffling around nervously. “I fixed your bike this morning,” he said before confiding that Debra was on her way. He was genuinely distressed. “She’s one of my best friends, man,” he said, shaking his head. “But everything’s cool between you and me.” The writer in me was fascinated. He was absolving me of my sins, unaware that I may have a lingering gripe and mystified that Debra was turning on him.

I’m fairly certain (though I never got a reason) that Debra’s annoyance stemmed from Jake’s failure to acquire work and, as she said, “contribute.” To her. Even though I’d been pulled into this unwittingly, she later told me that what happened between the two of us was between the two of us . . . she was not our mother. That went over like a Led Zeppelin.

As I said before, Jake never struck me as malicious. He at times tried to be helpful and wanted to connect, complaining that he hated to eat alone and cooking that contraband breakfast before I left. He had met Debra consoling her after a bad break-up. From the start, though, he struck me as someone who never grew up and took responsibility—like an early teen who feels small acts of kindness (I took out the trash and called grandma in the hospital) are sufficient exchange for food and shelter. He arrived from three weeks in Africa helping his brother-in-law on a film project, allegedly falling ill and subsequently being abandoned. I’d always suspected he’d quickly outstayed his welcome, as he now had once again. I can’t know for sure, but like a good scientist I have a strong body of evidence with which to form a theory.

SUGAR RATIONING (SORRY FOR THE INCONVENIENCE)

As he packed, Jake asked for a cup of coffee with the crestfallen look of Charlie Brown realizing he hadn’t got a single Valentine. I nodded. Holding grudges wouldn’t change anything. “You got any sugar?” I shook my head. “You somehow consumed an entire container while I was gone.” He waved nonchalantly. “No problem. I’ll [Read more…]

New Orleans Tourist to New Orleans Tenant: My First Week In The French Quarter

LAST EXCITING EPISODE  . . . .

When I left off, it was Saturday evening, I had just moved into my apartment on Decatur Street, and I was heading out on a cocktail tour of the French Quarter with the extra ticket from a friend still not realizing that there were two Jakes in my building, one of whom was my new roommate.

LIVE LOCAL, ACT TOURIST

antoines-new-orleans1jpg-f48f21a2213619d6_largeThe tour itself was informative and entertaining, though fortunately free as it didn’t warrant the sticker price. Our first stop was a small but apparently popular restaurant on Royal whose name escapes me. It was named after an old opera house around the corner though there was really no historic connection. The drink we were ‘introduced’ to here was a Moscow Mule, which my professor friend mentioned last article brings to every party she attends (and doesn’t charge $9 for what is effectively a fancy highball!) At the popular but pedestrian Court of Two Sisters, I skipped the overly sweet cocktail altogether.

Krewe of Rex Room

Krewe of Rex Room

We only visited three places, but at Antoine’s we embarked on a lengthy and detailed tour. Antoine’s is an upscale Creole restaurant that is not only the oldest continually run family restaurant in New Orleans but [Read more…]

New Orleans Tourist to New Orleans Tenant: My Last Day Uptown, Deja Vu Edition

DÉJÀ VU ALL OVER AGAIN

The_ScreamFriday I was to move into my new place on Decatur Street sometime after 5:00, so around 4:00 I wandered back from my Snow Bliz and bookshop adventure, swinging by the library-in-a-mansion one last time, and started packing my truck. Yet if you’ve read any of this blog you know nothing regarding my housing search in New Orleans has gone as planned!

DÉJÀ VU ALL OVER AGAIN

The_ScreamCommunicating via text is always cause for disaster. Debra, who I’m subletting from, has been crazy busy lately moving her daughter and grandson, picking up double shifts after a co-worker’s fiancé died suddenly, and catering an upcoming wedding. I had hoped to move in Friday morning, but when she said she would be tied up in Metairie until 5:00 I took that as a soft target—99% of the time if someone says they’re busy until X o’clock they are giving you an estimate; if you show up at that exact estimated moment they’ll inevitably be halfway across town and you’ll seem overeager at best or pushy and impatient at worst. Thus, I kept checking for my phone for a message she was home, trying to play it cool.  As 5:00 neared I was over halfway through packing my truck and broke down to text and see if Debra was home. I received a shocked reply saying that I was supposed to be there . . . now. I apologized and said I’d hurry up and finish packing, but she texted back and said [Read more…]

New Orleans Tourist to New Orleans Tenant: My Last Days Uptown

THE CITY WITHIN A CITY THAT NEVER SLEEPS

20130531_150105There is a relaxed, residential feel in Uptown New Orleans that I will miss. In fact, although eager to experience life in the bustling French Quarter, I’m a little worried at how my laid back constitution will handle twenty-four bustle of this compact yet ceaselessly cosmopolitan neighborhood. Thus, I spent my last days in Uptown wandering the streets lined with tropical cottages, revisiting favorite spots and trying a few that had so far eluded me.

IL POSTO: AN UPTOWN HIDDEN GEM

20130530_141312For months I passed Il Posto, a small Italian café tucked curiously away in my Uptown residential neighborhood, but never tried it until about a month ago after it kept getting recommended. The first time I stopped in, I even walked out since they don’t have a full breakfast menu—only fruit cups and bagels with a combination of veggies, cream cheese, and lox. I returned another morning, however, with adjusted expectations and was surprised at [Read more…]

New Orleans Visitor to New Orleans Vagabond (A Week In Pictures & Prose)

Hanging With Kermit Ruffins at Bullet's

Hanging With Kermit Ruffins at Bullet’s

As French Quarter Festival 2013 ended I was exhausted (I know, wah! wah!), but needed to focus on posting on all four days anyhow. In the two-week lull before Jazzfest, I was suspended somewhere between New Orleans Visitor and a newly settled resident. Thus, I spent the next week wondering the city like a vagabond, searching for regular spots, trying to make connections, and looking for where I fit in.

MONDAY: MANSION LIBRARIES & DAT DOG

Library In A St. Charles Ave. Mansion

Library In A St. Charles Ave. Mansion

Feeling ‘funned out,’ I left my room Monday only to exercise, working furiously to get my first French Quarter Festival post up. That evening, feeling closed in, I walked to a local branch library located in an old mansion for a change of scenery.

Anyone Need A Copy?!

Anyone Need A Copy?!

Finding a seat in a back corner, I died laughing when the first book I spied upon looking up was [Read more…]

Do You Know What It Means To Live In New Orleans? (Making My First Groceries & Coffee At Krewe Du Brew)

TAKE YOUR BIKE . . . BEFORE SOMEONE ELSE DOES!

My Future Regular Blogging Spot

My Future Regular Blogging Spot

I’ve often been told the best way to get around New Orleans is via bicycle—albeit on a cheap one as theft is rampant. So far I’ve been walking all over town, unafraid to take a forty-five minute stroll to get to a bar or restaurant. This time, however, arriving back at around 5pm Tuesday with my bike in tow, I immediately hit the road trying to beat an impending storm.

Despite the darkening skies, the air was cool and dry, making for pleasant cruising. I first peddled past a potential rental (rough neighborhood, so no dice) and then down Magazine Street past its eclectic restaurants, hip bars, and enviable housing, making it to Canal Street and the French Quarter in half an hour. I tucked this nugget away in my memory, wondering if [Read more…]

My Spring Break, Part 1: Don’t Vodka Them After Midnight

MY FLORIDA YO-YO: TO MOVE OR NOT TO MOVE

A Spring Break Beach Wedding

A Spring Break Beach Wedding

After St. Joseph’s Night I was buzzing on New Orleans, but prior commitments soon brought me back to Jacksonville. Although I supposedly moved to New Orleans February 7th, I’ve spent as much time back in Florida–the deep roots I’ve planted keep drawing me back. I had to return a few days earlier than planned to deal with personal business, though I’d known for a year that my best friend from high school, Todd VanDenLangenberg, was flying down from Wisconsin to spend the week and tie the knot.  He and Meg, his fiancé, used to visit annually and fell in love with St. Augustine so decided to marry on the beach there, arriving Tuesday March 26th and leaving to honeymoon in Key West the following Monday. (I’ve lived in Florida a decade now and my best friend gets married there the month after I move!?!)

Todd & Meg Hanging Out In St. Augustine Wedding Week

Todd & Meg Hanging Out In St. Augustine Wedding Week

That Sunday was Easter and spring break for half of America when two of my best friends from my camp years, Carson and Heather, come down annually with their two kids whom I’ve known since birth and call me ‘Uncle Eric.’ It’s one of the few chances I get to see these dear friends I left in Virginia, so how could I justify not staying another week?! Thus, like so many college kids half my age (sob!) I [Read more…]

My Year Of St. Patty’s Day, Part 2: Irish Channel Redo & Irish House Bubble & Squeak Stew

SUPER SUNDAY OF SLOTH (THE 8TH DEADLY SIN WHEN IT’S YOUR PROFESSION TO PARTY!)

Lock & Reload: By Mid Afternoon I Was Ready to Rejoin the St. Patty's Party

Lock & Reload:
By Mid Afternoon I Was Ready to Rejoin the St. Patty’s Party

My Mardi Gras ailment had run smack into allergy season which, driving back and forth between Jacksonville and New Orleans, was compounded by completely different pollen potions. On February 9th the health insurance from my old job had terminated. On February 10th I had awoken sick, struggling on and off ever since. My religious notions are based more on irony and coincidence than faith. Some greater consciousness with a sadistic sense of humor seems to be pulling the strings, for such ironic juxtaposition occurs much too frequently in my life to dismiss as random chance.

On Thursday I had finally visited a Walgreens clinic to throw cash at a Nurse Practitioner for an Rx of ‘cheap’ antibiotics. I hadn’t been deathly ill since just after Mardi Gras but couldn’t shake ebbing and flowing congestion as well as bouts of achy exhaustion once or twice a week. I only mention this because March 17th was not only  St. Patrick’s Day–the climax of four days of celebration–but also ‘Super Sunday’ for Mardi Gras Indians–the one day when they all converge in daylight to show off their costumes and march together. My antibiotics apparently hadn’t worked their magic yet, however, and I woke up once again feeling spent. Instead of chasing Indians and leprechauns, [Read more…]

Taking A Break And A Rookie Mistake

AN EXAGGERATING FISHERMAN & OTHER UNLIKELY BREAKFAST TALES

Slim Goodies: Rumors Of Our Demise Have Been Greatly Exagerated

Slim Goodies:
Rumors Of Our Demise Have Been Greatly Exaggerated

After my wonderfully unexpected yet late Wednesday, I slept in before eagerly strolling to Slim Goodies for breakfast. I had stumbled into La Fin du Monde the day before only because The Captain had told me Slim Goodies, a greasy diner he had recommended last December during a visit, had burned down. I had had an amazing breakfast at this funky little dive with bright walls and an open, eclectic vibe and knew as soon as I learned they had WiFi that this would be a regular blogging spot when I moved town. Thus I was devastated by the news of their demise.

Walking back from La Fin, however, I peeped in and the place looked fine. A cook who was just leaving informed me [Read more…]