Halloween Weekend In New Orleans, Part 1: New Eyes & Old Fears

THE MOST FRIGHTENING THING OF ALL

2013-10-26 22.16.12

A Nightmare on Magazine Street

Halloween has long been my favorite holiday, challenged only when I first came to New Orleans just prior to the turn of the millennium to become a Mardi Gras maniac. Christmas is the sentimental standard-bearer in most of American culture, but I’ve always said that Christmas is for kids, whereas Halloween is for adults to act like kids. Since I don’t have children to help keep my Christmas spirit alive, Halloween wins in a landslide. Still, as I wrote in my last post about the Audubon Aquarium, as much as I nurture my inner child and fight becoming curmudgeon, it’s difficult not to lose some to the wonder of the seasonal celebrations that hold so much meaning in my life. Perhaps that’s why I hold on so fiercely, afraid that if I lose my attachment to that seasonal rhythm that I’ll fade into yet another uninspired drone drifting towards death.

This year in particular, though, is my chance to rekindle the wonder since New Orleans is not only Mardi Gras central but a top worldwide Halloween destination with a history steeped in voodoo and haunts. The weekend before Halloween is as big as the holiday itself, and I had the chance to not only see the holiday but the city itself anew through the eyes of a child . . . err, teenage; after all, what can be more frightening than [Read more…]

New Orleans Tourist Attractions: The Audubon Aquarium

FINDING FAMILY-FRIENDLY AMIDST AMERICA’S A-1 ADULT ATTRACTION

2013-09-28 13.28.10When visiting America’s most culturally rich adult playground it can be difficult to find family-friendly New Orleans Tourist Attractions, particularly around the French Quarter. Bachelor/bachelorette parties and conventioneers seeking to misbehave can prowl the French Quarter 24 hours, but when I’ve had friends with children visit I’ve taxed my brain to weave together an agenda, for there are only so many hours you can browse the souvenir shops on Decatur and gorge on beignets at Café du Monde. Fortunately, the Audubon Institute has your back.

2013-09-28 12.57.30If you have family-will travel, there is always the famous Audubon Zoo (where they all axed fo’ you!) Uptown which was rescued from decrepitude a few decades ago to become a world class attraction. If you’re wanting to stay near the French Quarter—tourist ground zero—you are still in luck, for the Audubon Institute  offers three attraction: An Imax Theater showing nature movies and an occasional national blockbuster, an Insectarium which aims to show the beauty of nature’s most misunderstood and abundant creatures, and Audubon Aquarium right on the banks of the Mississippi. I recently visited the latter on a lazy Saturday afternoon in my quest to explore and share about New Orleans Tourist Attractions, finding [Read more…]

My Krewe Debut: Mor-pheus Fun, Less Drama

DESPERATELY SEEKING KREWESMAN

All Hail The King! (And Happy Birthday!!!)

All Hail The King!
(And Happy Birthday!!!)

After months of searching, querying, and inquiring like Desperately Seeking Krewes-man, Friday night I finally met members of my new home in Krewe of Morpheus. In addition to the monthly meetings that started in August, Morpheus holds two majors social event: The Captain’s Crawl in the French Quarter every spring and this night of booze, buffet, and bowling at Rock-n-Bowl.

The event was scheduled from 7:00-9:30 and I arrived at a quarter after, somehow missing this landmark near my home that I’ve passed a hundred times. Paul Leman, the Morpheus president (I wonder if he has brothers in banking?!), was taking names at the door as I arrived. He asked what float I was on and I shrugged. “Kim . . . something.” I then added that I’d been emailing with Connie Hibben, the membership director who recently gave me the green light to use names, and explained how I joined to blog my experience. He introduced himself and pointed out the lanes reserved for the Krewe and our buffet table, promising to come over and make introductions once he was settled.

TKO BY GUMBO 

The Krewe Congregates

The Krewe Congregates

I spent a few minutes weaving through groups gathered to bowl or just chat, but was a little reticent about making an approach. “Hello, I’m Eric and I just joined out of the blue not knowing a dang soul!” I might as well tattoo NEWBIE on my forehead. I did attempt a few stunted introductions before realizing my admission covered beer and wine, so I fled to the bar and then started mowing through shrimp crostini, mini-pizza’s, chicken wings, and jambalaya. Once again, New Orleans 1, Restraint & Healthy Eating 0!

Fortunately Paul soon wandered over and introduced me to the Krewe Captain, John Beninate who is so Mardi Gras that if he were in an accident, EMTs would have to hang three different blood bags: purple, green, and gold.

John & Judy

John & Judy

John reminded me of [Read more…]

From Sudden Super Heroes to Ubiquitous Saints & Bearded Legends: Weirdness & Wonder in New Orleans

SUPERMAN, MEET WONDER (& WEIRDNESS) WOMAN

2013-10-05 17.00.30It’s been a busy three weeks since my birthday though not much of this wonder and weirdness has coalesced into blog posts. Tonight, though, I finally met my Morpheus mates at Rock-n-Bowl and I’m excited for the true kick off to My Year of Mardi Gras (though that’s how I felt about the Chewbacchus kickoff that turned out to be somewhat of a dud). In between turning 20 for the third time and tonight’s Mardi Gras meet-up, I did have a weekend that seemed to encompass all the wonder and weirdness that makes New Orleans such a unique city all in one compact weekend. In fact, if this sensuous city had a an alter ego, it’s be Wonder & Weirdness Woman.

SUPER PIRATES & ADULT UNDEROOS

It’s always more natural to shirk productivity and explore your own town when you have a visitor. This was the case the weekend before last when my college friend Mike drove in from Pensacola. We have roots deeper than a bayou Cypress so when he apologized about our miscommunication during my pre-birthday stop in Pensacola I just laughed it off. It was just a catalyst for an unanticipated adventure, and I’ll always associate that all night drive to an obscured beach sunrise with this landmark birthday.

camelliagrill3Mike arrived too late Friday night for two old farts to head out, so we stayed up late chatting.  Saturday, after a late start and amazing breakfast at the famous Camellia Grill, one of the best ‘greasy spoons’ in the nation where the fast talking waiters are as much a draw as the canoe-sized omelets, we set off on a frantic mission. My writer and LSU professor friend Chris had for years shared pictures of the annual Super Hero Bar Crawl that one of his best friends hosts on his birthday, and now that I’m in town had sent me an evite which I managed to not read until Thursday night. A Super Hero Bar Crawl is [Read more…]

Read Beans On Monday: Nine Lives by Dan Baum

OH WHAT A BEAUTIFULLY TANGLED WEB WE WEAVE

Nine Lives: Mystery, Magic, Death, and Life in New Orleans

by Dan Baum


Nine Lives is yet another stirring and beautiful book about New Orleans that will captivate and mesmerize you from the opening page. This book delivers exactly what the title promises, 9 separate life stories that are woven together to read like a novel, though these are actually people whom Dan Baum met while covering Katrina for the New Yorker. Some of the lives intersect casually, some intimately, and some never meet at all. They all come from different walks of life and varying social strata in different parts of town, yet Baum recognized that each had an amazing story to tell and by combining them, he tells the history of the city starting with Hurricane Betsy and winding through the post-Katrina recovery.

This is the genius of the novel. Although [Read more…]

New Orleans Tourist Attractions: NOLA Brewing Tour

13-09-27 Me at NOLA Brewing

So it’s Friday afternoon, you’re visiting New Orleans, and you’re looking for something to do. Or better yet, you’re a local with the day off and want to enjoy your town without feeling like a tourist. Then I’ll let you in on a not so well kept secret: NOLA Brewing Company does a free ‘tour’ every Friday from 2:00-3:00. Get there early, though, because there’s sure to be a line: This isn’t your typical beer nerd tour.

I can say that, having toured many breweries in my day. My best friend lives outside Milwaukee and has taken me on several beer tours including the highly entertaining and educational one at Lakeside Brewery where they have you chant the three actions of fermenting yeast—“eat, eat, eat; shart, shart, shart; screw, screw, screw!”—and  then sing the Laverne & Shirley song at tour’s end. One of the best assignments I ever had working for a Jacksonville magazine was to do a story on all the local breweries leading up to their annual craft brew festival. Anything but the briar patch, says Brer Rabbit! Plus I’ve taken several Jacksonville visitors on the free Budweiser Brewery tour where they offer a whitewashed version of their history (Adolphus Busch didn’t just ‘think up’ the word Budweiser, it’s a region of central Europe with it’s own brewing technique and namesake brewery that sued the crap out of you) and you get two free beers at the end.

All these other tours were medium to heavy on education and light on beer. Usually you get two free samples even at—heck, especially at–Budweiser who, according to my interview with Bold City Brewery, spills more beer in a day than they brew in a year!

But [Read more…]

Read Beans On Monday: Surviving Hurricane Katrina by Mary Gehman

FROM A DREAM TO A NIGHTMARE

Surviving Hurricane Katrina

by Mary Gehman

hurricane-ivanYesterday I wrote about how the Morpheus, the god of dreams, made my Mardi Gras dream come true. Today I turn my attention to the near-incomprehensible nightmare of Mary Gehman, a writer, researcher, publisher, and professor who tried to ride out Katrina in her Mid-City home, only to find herself embroiled in a week-long ordeal that hit most of the archetypal Katrina images: rising waters in the home, stranded on an overpass, lack of food and water while helicopters hovered doing nothing, hell at the Superdome, and a disorienting bus ride to destinations unknown.

I am taking a different approach with today’s review. This is not a book or even a published article. Mary (I’ll her first name because I feel like I know her intimately after this account) owns a small independent press, Margaret Media, and dedicated a page on its website to this 29 page, single spaced document.

I learned of Mary’s account Friday after [Read more…]

Making the Krewe Cut: My Year of Mardi Gras Joins a Krewe

morpheus-iris-01. . . the Krewe of Morpheus!”

My heart pounded with excitement as I resumed my seat in Panera after startling the entire breakfast crowd and reread the response more carefully the second time.

Hi Eric,

I am sorry it took me so long to get back with you. Life is Crazy!

I read your Blog and see what you are doing—go ahead & put me down as the Lieutenant. I will put you with my float to make sure you have a fantastic time. I mean, everyone has a great time, but this way I will be able to help answer any questions you may have along the way!! You will be on a Super Float—The float will be one of two that holds 60 riders!!

Your Blog is great. I read it off & on all day yesterday. As long as you do not write anything negative, I can connect you with people in our origination that may give you some inside to the ins & outs of the back side of Mardi Gras. A lot of stuff people don’t know about.

I am looking forward to sharing this experience with you!! You will have a blast!!

Morpheus patch blueAs I reveled in this belated birthday news, I did not yet realize that the Krewe of Morpheus derived its name from the Greek and Roman god of dreams. Origin of the word ‘morph,’ Morpheus can assume any shape he desires while you sleep to provide wisdom or reveal the future. Morpheus’s job is to literally make your dreams come true. How appropriate! Apparently I was on the correct path with my pursuit of orpheus, it’s just that in true Sesame Street fashion I needed [Read more…]

A Krewe X 2: And So It Begins . . .

EXPECT THINGS NOT TO GO AS EXPECTED

09-28-13 Bike Ride Me

‘Selfie’ Taken During the Chewbacchus 2014 Kickoff Bike Ride

Although my vision of My Year of Mardi Gras has always been to paint a broad, layered portrait of New Orleans and its food, music, people, and culture, the heart of my mission upon embarking was to join at least one Mardi Gras Krewe and document that experience. Since arriving in town on February 6th, though, my path has taken many unexpected twists and turns.

My dramatic housing search, in particular, lasted over half the year. Attempts to reach out to other blogs, volunteer at WWOZ or the Jazz & Heritage Foundation, or promote the site though handing out cards and pure force of personality at local events paid little dividends. On the other hand, I’ve had much more success than anticipated connecting with local authors and encountered unexpected enthusiasm with resurrecting an old novel. Now working with someone to resubmit this book for publication has been a major unexpected endeavor. I have also met a small but growing group of talented and intriguing artists and intellectuals that have made ‘Red Beans on Monday’ an emerging success. So there have been surprises and disappointments, and I should have known that the only thing you can plan on is that things won’t go as planned. Still, somewhere amidst these triumphs and tribulations I began to fear I’d lost sight of that core mission.

Until I received [Read more…]

Read Beans on Monday: Yellow Jack by Josh Russell

LOVE IN THE TIME OF COLOR-CONFLICT

(YELLOW FEVER & BLACK MISTRESSES)

Yellow Jack

by Josh Russell


Josh Russell’s fictional historic re-creation set in 1840’s New Orleans, Yellow Jack, is a quick and compelling read that whirls its reader through two equally tragic narratives: the destructive power of a love triangle in a time of conflicting social mores and the annual devastating epidemics of yellow fever, a.k.a. ‘yellow jack,’ that ran rampant through this swampy outpost.

Russell tells his story through the eyes of Claude Marchand, a fictional apprentice of Louis Daguerre, the inventor of the first camera or daguerreotype. After Marchand has a falling out with his teacher he smashes Daguerre’s equipment, setting him back several years, and runs off to New Orleans to set himself up as part magician and part artist years before the photograph makes its European debut. Upon his arrival, though, Marchand takes to the streets in desperation and survives by using the pistol he’d taken from his master to rob locals. This theme of thievery rings true in New Orleans‘s history and serves as a good introduction to the danger the has always followed the city’s excess.

Marchand soon starts a transition to respectability, however, after he is [Read more…]